Be careful using Fimo in the mold because unless you are very lucky you will never again be able to use it for porcelain! If you decide you are definitely going to use Fimo and not porcelain, you should spray the mold face with a thin coat of artist's lacquer. (Joy)
Getting Fimo out of the Mold :
with the fimo in molds try using some talcum powder. Sprinkle the mold lightly first with powder. Then when you press the fimo into the mold, take a small ball of it to push on to the back to pull it out of the mold. The extra ball should pull right off once it is out of the mold. Now if any one knows how to get the resin out of the molds tell me too. I know there is a mold release but can you use it on the plastic molds? Dorothy M.
Problems cutting cookies out of fimo? Which type of problem? Is it sticking to the inside of the cutter? Or is it not coming loose from the rest of the fimo when you try to remove it? I have problems with real cookie dough to so it doesn't seem to bad with fimo to roll up the mistakes and try again.Fimo doesn't taste any the worse for mistakes at least no dollhouse residence have written me to complain.ha ha. Most problems I've had are from rushing and not conditioning the fimo well enough. I sometimes find with round cookies a little twist makes a cleaner cut, with stars, hearts, or gingerbread on a flat surface I wiggle the cutter a bit but not every cookie comes off clean. Removing them from the cutting surface using a razor blade as a spatula helps to eliminate distortion. I would think that sculpty cookies would be to mushy to retain there shape in moving, I've never used scupty for cookies ...whats the general opinion on that? Whwn the cookie gets stuck inside the kemper cutter pushing it out leaves a mark on it , it gets stuck less often with a wiggle or twist but I suppose (haven't tried this but will) you could dip the cutter in corn starch or baby pwder to prevent sticking the same way you dip a real cutter in flour . I do use baby powder on metal molds with fimo and it works wonderfully. I hesitate to mention it because everyone laughs at me for using paper punches on fimo cookies but if you have the paper to wards the shape and the fimo towards the hole it works fine. The paper can be removed before or after baking. My punches are still working fine. I get so distressed when I'm told it is not possible because I do it so therefore it is possible. Judi.(JAM)
release agents for molds. I used to use baby powder, but have found something better. I get industrial talc from MicroMark. Works great. Can't remember what I paid, but it wasnt much. Liz in Ct
Casting. Metal fabrication: Yes I can fabricate brass or metal. Your project would probably involve fabricating and machining the pattern then making a mold for lost wax production. Further response on this subject would be too long for TT and would mostly be directed to you, so I will try to put something together and e-mail it to you. Bill Hudson.
Making doll molds:
About making molds for resin. The only thing I know about is how to make resin heads for large dolls. What I used was RTV Silicone. I got the stuff that is used for painting on things and put about 6 coats over the head I wanted to copy (leave the neck open). Then I made a bed of (wet) plaster and put the covered head, face down, with the neck hole not covered, partly into the plaster so that when I took out the original the RTV would not lose its shape. Then I carefully peeled the RTV back - it is elastic. After that it was a matter of mixing the resin (nasty stuff) and pouring it into the mold (which was sitting in the plaster). It is possible to make a large object hollow, but it is a big job. Do a first coat inside the RTV by pouring in a bit of resin then swishing it around so that it is more-or-less evenly distributed. Then another coat, and so on until the resin is thick enough. Personally, I will be happy if I never work with resin again in my life!!
He is making some men's hands and feet and sculpting them from the new Sculpy. I said before that it is softer and does not hold its shape as well as the old Sculpy. He ended up impaling each limb on a round toothpick, then making a blob for the other end of the toothpick and sitting the blobs on a cookie sheet with the limbs in the air, then baking. It worked!! No flat places. It sure is discouraging when he does a great hand with fold lines and all and then it goes flat in the baking. Well not 'flat', but it only needs a bit of flattening to ruin a delicate sculpture. He can sculpt the men's heads at a great rate, but doing the limbs sure takes a lot more time and trouble. He is beavering away and I, for one, am very pleased to see it. Joy in Midland
Miniroo Wood Glue: I have seen several references to glue - I found a great glue at the show in Portland. It's called Miniroo Wood Glue. Distributed by Rainbow Design; Box 4107; Salem, OR 97302. Dean Jensen is the owner. The glue is VERY forgiving, sandable, etc. He also is a source for "mini" glass.
"Mini hold" waxy glue. This stuff is great, it allows you to "hold"the mini items to the right place without damaging them. It is sticky, but won't stick to your fingers and it is strong enough to hold a picture to the wall - hope it lasts. It was just perfect for setting the table with the silverware and glasses that are so hard to keep in place.
Mighty Tacky is a great glue for almost anything (Heather - WEETWO )
Glues and Tips on Glueing: Also found a tip in some old kit instructions - being about the messiest gluer that I know - I tried this for gluing small things and actually did not make a mess. The innovative "tool" is a hatpin. It really gives great control over the glue. I used a piece of styrofoam block to stick it in to clean the point and it was wonderful.
Another thought on glue -- I have started using YES glue and Grandmother Stover's - both something called stick flat glue and it is wonderful for paper especially. I glued wallpaper printed on my printer to foamcore and did not have the first bubble. It has a little bit of working time so if you get something crooked you can reposition. I really like using it. (Pat C)
wonderful glue called "Moveable Miniature Glue." It is completely colorless and works like a magnet. After you apply it you can move your piece as many times as you want to. I am not sure what it does to wood, so I decided to try it out. So far so good. It is sold by Huen Enterprises PO Box 70087 Riverside CA 92513
Stick it again and again : the glue that sticks over and over again, I bought some from Kimberly Corner in Las Vegas Ne..they do mail order. The stuff works like this..you coat the surface that you would like to have sticky and let it dry. If it's a porous surface or a heavy item, you may want to add one or two more layers. When it is dry, that item is sticky and can be placed on the wall or wherever, moved, and put elsewhere repeatedly. Works quite well. Kimberly corner advertises in NN and in MC. I like the stuff. It's called STICK IT AGAIN AND AGAIN. (Joani C)
More on Glues (Glue to be used with Bead Easy): I use thick tacky all the time with these beads. I have just bought a tube of UV curing(expose to sunlight) glass glue. It is in a red dispenser tube on a card, I think by Duro. I have yet to try it, but it was in the clearance bin, cheap and looked useful. Says it also glues glass to metal. Only works for clear and light colored glass, should be ok for most of the beads. It says it does not yellow and dries with no visible glue line(as in cracked glass repairs). I have seen a glass set(?) glue or something to that effect in the JAF catalog. As far as on fabric, any of the glues for adhering things like gems and such to fabric should work. As far as I know, the claim to only use their glues is usually just a marketing ploy on most companies part(s). I have also heard of clear watch crystal cement that works on glue. I have yet to use much but the tacky, but any glass(or fabric for that) adhesive should work) Good luck and let us know what you try. I don't have any ideas except tacky glue for wood, it works so well on dissimilar surfaces. Regarding the workrooms and flourscent lights: I just have the normal kind downstairs, but in my kitchen we use the warmer balanced kind. I forget what they are called, but the are more expensive and say something about more normal light or something; maybe somebody knows what they are called? They are recommended for using where you do not want it to look like flourescent lighting. Debbie S(dasminis@aol.com)
Glues :
I carry Gripp in the shop as well as Bond 484 for plastic tiles etc. I'm a glue person and need a "certain" glue for each job, so if you need it I probably have it. If you want to order Grippp from anyone, do it now, because it shouldn't freeze. It gets large lumps in it. Ich!Just e-mail me at minitqs@execpc.com if you would like to purchase it from my shop.
Gluing Nylon and Fabric:
Dritz makes a product called "Liquid Stitch," which is specially made for fabric...It can be found in the notions part of any fabric store. I put a bit of glue on an old piece from nylons, and the glue doesn't seem to hurt the nylon one bit!! (Lonley Star Julie)
Removing glue:
If the glue is Elmer's or any other white glue, including Carpenters glue and Tite Bond, it is milk based and will disolve with vinegar. Use plain old white apple cider vinegar. The yellow stuff is too strong in smell and will turn your piece yellow. In a pinch I have used gormet white vinegar but it took quit a while to get rid of the garlic smell; taragon isn't quite so bad VBGWTS). Brush a little on the glue and let it soak in. Try to keep it off the wood although I havn't ahd amy problems when it did. it just soaks in and you can smell it for a while. Just make sure it is completely dry or your new glue will not stick. If it is super glue or any of the plastic glues, use acetone (be sure to work in a well ventalated space) if it is any other type of glue you may have to carve it off or file it. *To fix the chip**** : Since I can't see it, I will just have to wing it. I assume it is or will be painted. Use a jewlers saw, X-Acto saw or even a knife to cut out the chipped area. Make all cuts clean and the edges as sqiuare as possible. Cut a piece fo bass wood to fit the hole. If the chip is on the curved area, nmake it wide so that you can carve it to the curve. Fit the piece as best as you can and glue it in place. If it needs to be carved to a curve, carve it to shape after the glue has dried. if ther are still cracks or it doesn't fit completely, fill them using the baking soda method. file and sand it smoot and paint it. If the chip isn't too large you can use spakle, Durham Rock putty or even epoxy. Fill over size and file and sand to shape. Good luck. Bill H.
Kiki, Mini-wax is a brand of stain you get in full size paint stores. St Clair Paint and Paper, Lansing Buildall, thats the type of place in Canada, but you probably have few "Do it yourself " decorating stores. I remember a post a long while back when you explained the historuc cultural lack of that type of store. I bet you can even get Mini-wax stain in Wal-mart but I'm mad at them right now. ( Judi JAM)
MIN-WAX...I saw it in a tube-like pen in one of the craft shops. I am sure it was for touch-ups for real scale furniture, but it would be OK for mini items. (Rose)
You hardware or paints stores should have small containers of stain like miniwax. Even the craft and dollhouse stores here sell it. I like the water based ones better than miniwax, as I find that I have problems using the oil based stains and breathing. (Isabel)
Painting Grommets on the shower curtain
For the grommets on the shower curtain, try metalic acrylic paint - silver or gold - painted on the edges of the little holes with a toothpick or fine brush. I have been trying to think of what kind of shelf brackets a house of that age would have in the bathroom, and I think that the white procelain or ceramic ones would be perfect. You could make them from fimo, just cutting with a razor blade and softening the edges a bit before baking, or from wood painted with several coats of paint and a gloss finish. EllenRoche
nail polish for mini picture frames
I've used it for mini-picture frames. It has a nice glossy finish and it comes with its own brush so you don't have to clean brushes! I made a pink frame for a girl's birth sampler and a red frame for a boy's birth sampler and it worked really well. Probably wouldn't be too good for a more formal painting type picture though. Mary Lynne
Regarding Bespac and painting.
Brooke Tucker has an unusual technique for removing the finish...She puts it in the freezer and then into paint thinnner. (I know even I think I messed this up.. but I am sure that is what she said!) And yes it all goes into pieces so I have no idea why she puts it into paint thinner first... sigh. What I do is... depending on the pieces... The unfinished pieces are ok but the ones that are finished in fruitwood seem to have less stuff (lacquer or what ever) on them and don't seem tobe so heavy. Since what I do is paint over these finishes I just steel wool them and the paint takes just fine. Actually I almost prefer to use the lighter stained finishes as they are already sanded and sealed. Some pieces (such as the now notorious plant stand) I steel wool the whole piece, paint and gilt the parts I want and Deft the whole piece.
Substitute for Stains:
If you can't get stains in Rio, you may want to try this tip John picked up from one of the local men who attends the Guild School every year. Wipe tube oil paints ( the ones artists use) on to the wood, then wipe it off. For a lighter stain mix the tube oil paint with a little boiled linseed oil. Both of these are available at any art can mix the paint colors to match any wood tone. When you have the color you want, let it dry and finish it with some sort of sealer. A quicker, way John stains some of his pieces is with shoe polish. Apply a colored wax shoe polish ( the kind in a round tin) with a cloth, let it dry and them buff it and finish with a coat of clear shoe polish of furniture wax. (Dorothy Haw)
Primer / Painting:
Re painting -- I use an art product called gesso -- comes in white, black, gray - it (especially with a light sanding gives a really nice surface to work on --Most art stores or stores that carry art supplies (Michael's) sell it. (Pat C)
Hint: A quick filler for almost anything thgat is going to be painted. Fill the hole, flaw or what ever with super glue. Imediately sprinkle baking soda on it. Blow the loose soda away and wait a minute or so. More glue and then soda. When it has built up above the surface give it a rest for a couple minutes. You can now carve, sand or file it flat and smooth. You can repair almost anything this way. Chipped, old collectable, china or porceline (doesn't hold up to dish washer well). Fill the chip this way then paint with matching enamal. When it hardens it is like plastic. (Bill Hudson)
Covering a Trunk;
The 1st thing you'll want to do is select the type of covering. The 3 basic types I use are leather, reptile and canvas. The canvas can be purchased at any bookbindery. Look in the "Yellow Pages" to find a leather craft shop. The leather and reptile skins that I use come from Tandy Leather Company. They all have scrap boxes. Pick a skin that's as thin as possible. You can use dye to change the color later. I use pig, kidskin, kangaroo and the underbelly of snakes and lizards. I've heard Richard tell a customer that when I need a new reptile skin, I make him go for a walk in a Louisiana Swamp and anything that bites him and is still hanging on when he gets home, I'll make a trunk out of. I get my brass hardware from Ron Stetkewick, Authentic Brass Hardware, HCR 1, Box 61B, Cairo, NY 12413 or Cat's Paw, 336 Candlewood Lake Rd., Brookfield, CT 06804.
Let's cover your curved top trunk. I treat the lid and the box as seperate items. I will assume that you're using leather.
Lay a piece of leather flat on the table. Put a coat of Sobo glue on one end of the lid, place the end of the lid down on the leather and let dry. Do one piece at a time. Always leave some excess leather on each edge until it is dry. When dry, trim off the excess. Do the same for the other end. With both ends trimmed, glue a third piece of leather over the curved top. Let dry and then trim. Cover the box the same way, but in this order. Bottom 1st, the ends 2nd, the front next and the back last. Let each piece dry and then trim.
Each of my trunks is built from scratch and has a routed lip on the box. Your's may not. Trim the opening as required. Cover all the trimmed edges (lid & box) with narrow selfsticking black graphic tape.
I usually put more than 100 nails in some of my Jenny Lind trunks. It looks great. To keep them evenly spaced, take a piece of 1/12 graph paper, put a strip of double sided sticky tape on one side and attach it to the trunk edge. Stick a small pin through the paper at each X to mark where you will put the nails. Do this on both ends of the trunk. Take the paper and tape off. Push each nail in with the flat part of your tweezer.
Nail and glue (Super Glue) the hinges and lock. Cover the interior with a small pattern wallpaper. Obviously, don't use a modern wallpaper in a 100 year old trunk. Helen D
About bending wood for the runners: I don't know how it was done in FSC but I laminate mine. Draw your form on Model air craft plywood and cut it out. Set a compas to the thickness of the thickest part of the runner and run the pin side along teh cut edge marking a line inside on the pattern. This will allow room for the piece bing bent. Saw this line out. nail and glue one half of the cut pattern to a piece of 1/4 " ply. Melt candle wax on the plywood base and on the pattern edge. (2) Soak bass wood strips in hot water. Wipe them off and fan them out from one end. While still wet apply super glut to the second adn bottom strips. Carefully fan them together but don't press them together. Place the strips in the form and press them to shape with the other half. Clamp , with medium pressure, the movable part of the form to the base with two C clamps to hold it in place . Using a mallet hammer the movable part tighyly against the fixed part of athe form and tighten the clamps. Set it aside for fifteen or twenty minutes. You can now un clamp it. Even with wax on it the super glue may stick to the mold. Sharpen the edge of a putty knife and work it under the piece to loosen it. If any places didn't glue. Spread them open slightly and force more glue in the crack and clamp with a close pin. I find this method to be a lot stronger and accurate than bending one piece. Bill Hudson
You might want to dig out your cross-stitching fabric & make your trunks. I use it to make my turnks & & lots of other things. It bends so easy & if you wanted to make it hard & stiff I then rub a fabric hardner on it & let it dry. They have different colors of fabric you can use. Shirley In Pa
I have wide pine floors in my house. I use individual slats or the paneling that comes in 4" x 2' strips. For knots I have used a number of different methods (before staining and/ or poly) The one that was the most " REALISTIC " was using a lit cigatette or a punk ( that kids use on the 4th ) To lightly Burn in the knots. I have also used the woodburn tip from Craftsmen 6 in 1 creative tool; the tip of a crayon ; the tip of a brown mascara wand. Painting was the one method that showed VERY poor results. (Karolyn)
Several ways to do this... will combine 2. If anyone wants clarification pls email me at QPVX48A@Prodigy.com. Ok. The hard way. Take 3" wide bass wood (with as little grain as psooible) The easy way. Random strips of bass wood. If possible find a piece of Knotty pine (full scale) as a reference. Score 3 inch board in random widths. (1/4 -3/4 May be one or two 1inch). Stain the lightest color of the sample. This would be the rather "high" yellow background. You can do this with stain or mix and match from acrylic paint as a wash. Let thouroughly dry. Deside on your grain pattern. Cant have too many knot holes in the same place or hieght. Lightly flog with a 1/2 inch wide sable brush. Flogging is a technique that means you lay on a coat of color ( in this case the brown that will become the graining) Then you flog it off in a qucik snapping motion that will leave very little paint on the piece. What it will leave will be small "grains" or openings. This motion is done from top to bottom to avoid overlapping lines. Come in with your grain color and line draw your "heart" (knots) wood. Make sure to do this at random. Your "drawing" can be done with a simple liner brush. Anything between a 10/0 to 20/0. Let set for a few seconds (especially if working with craft acryllics). Lightly blot with paper towel or flog again with dry brush.I am sure I haven't made my self clear. So if you have questions I will be glad to answer them and give you color suggestions. (Renee)
TRUNKS- there are some very inexpensive Christmas ornaments with plastic trunks, even dome shaped lids. Most have plastic toys, etc. that can be pried off, or shaved off, and you can cover with leather, and line with cotton, and paint over trim for a very nice trunk for the attic. You can even use some of those Houseworks hinges to make the lids open and close.
Removing paper from Cigar Boxes : for the cigar boxes with paper you can either repaper them or use rubber cement solvent to remove it. As for the the wood ones with writing on it you can gesso the box or use spray sandable primer. Make sure you sand inbetween Heavy coats. Hope this helps some. Renee
There has been talk about the Garfield house with 1/8" walls and windows not fitting.
Options:
Got my daughter a Barbie Designer thing.... Let me tell you the poor child has to pull me off the computer!!! I couldn't begin to do what >some of ya'll have suggested... I know I would just mess it up and clog my machine. But Barbie has refills of fabric. A couple of different types. I don't know how much it cost but there are real possiblities here. Will keep you posted.Oh and for you others. I use my printer to do heat transfers. Then I can iron them on to white (or what ever color background) velvet. Instant rug.
Date: Feb 21, 1997